Front - BRAKE LINES
I dipped all the brake line frame clips in muriatic acid and painted them, I then bought all new stainless steel bolts to attach the brake lines to the frame.
These are front break line brackets drum a drum brake car. Disk brackets have an extra folded over piece of metal and a different whole size for the line. I prefer the drum brackets shown here now wire brushed, muratic acid dipped and painted.
These are front break line brackets drum a drum brake car. Disk brackets have an extra folded over piece of metal and a different whole size for the line. I prefer the drum brackets shown here now wire brushed, muratic acid dipped and painted.
This is the proportioning valve for a 4 wheel disc brake set up. I wire brushed it and clear coated it to keep it nice. I used all stainless steel new brake lines from Right stuff for a '71-'72 convertible frame Chevelle. The 2 front hoses are Russell Brake Line 657340; 16" 3/8" IF x Banjo and new 10mm banjo bolts from AutoZone.
This shows the line installed to the caliper and the frame bracket with a reconditioned hose clip.
The replacement proportioning valves line sensor does not match up with the factory Chevelle wiring harness. You can get this replacement from several places. I bought this off eBay for $10 and will splice it to my factory connector wire. Some proportioning valves come with when you buy them.
My Chevelle previously had disc fronts and drum rear, but now with the 4 wheel discs the master cylinder must be changed along with the proportioning valve.
I had a vacuum brake booster and master cylinder already fit into a Chevelle that I put into my Chevelle. It is from a '95-'97 Blazer/S10/Jimmy. I am not sure if the booster needed any modifications to work, I just transplanted in. I really liked it because the booster is small diameter and the master cylinder was aluminum with an easily removable lid. I ran that for many years without incident. However, now with 4 wheel discs it needs to be changed. Fortunately, I found that the Blazers and others perhaps offered a rear disc option from the factory. So I could just buy a new master cylinder for 4 wheel discs and swap it out and still keep that aluminum look and easy top.
My rear drum master cylinder had part numbers such as MC390320 & 4161023, showing that it has a 15/16” bore if I found good information. The disc/disc has a 1” bore and this is needed for delivering the correct amount of fluid for each brake stroke to the larger caliper fluid capacity. Both with ½”-20 and 9/16-18 inlets.
I found that different manufacturers have different style fluid reservoirs. I found part numbers for the 4 wheel disc master cylinder such as 130.66035, MC390431 and Cardone 13-2821. However I went with the Cardone 10-2821 because it looked to have the biggest fluid reservoirs which I believe I will need being that I used the dual piston big calipers front and rear. I will have to see how it works out. If I have proportioning problems such as the rear locking up before the front I will simply put an in-line adjustable proportioning valve in the rear.
My rear drum master cylinder had part numbers such as MC390320 & 4161023, showing that it has a 15/16” bore if I found good information. The disc/disc has a 1” bore and this is needed for delivering the correct amount of fluid for each brake stroke to the larger caliper fluid capacity. Both with ½”-20 and 9/16-18 inlets.
I found that different manufacturers have different style fluid reservoirs. I found part numbers for the 4 wheel disc master cylinder such as 130.66035, MC390431 and Cardone 13-2821. However I went with the Cardone 10-2821 because it looked to have the biggest fluid reservoirs which I believe I will need being that I used the dual piston big calipers front and rear. I will have to see how it works out. If I have proportioning problems such as the rear locking up before the front I will simply put an in-line adjustable proportioning valve in the rear.