Engineered Innovative New Stuff That
Multi-application Chevy parts for sale
I was sick and tired of pulling leaves out of my fenders. I
came up with this little device. It works great. It's just black plastic and
double sided foam tape. It not only keeps the leaves out, it also keeps the hood
from ever rubbing the fenders. I can sell you a set with tape for $20 plus $4
priority USPS shipping if this is all you are getting.
Currently available in Black or White. Please specify your
Front lower control arm plates and straps
This kit consists of 4 pieces of 1/8" thick steel plasma cut
like shown. 2 cut plates and 2 strips. Control arms are not
included. This is enough to complete one PAIR of control
For you to weld into your arms for
superior strength. Why chance it?
Yours could break just like this!
Pinion Mounted Parking Brake Kit.
for 68-72 (12 bolt)(10 bolt available not shown) rear ends.
(Off-road use only)
This kit will allow you to use calipers on the rear disc
brakes that do not have the parking brake built in them.
This eliminates all the complications of having to set the
parking brake frequently and running multiple cables.
Especially on tubbed cars where the cables can't make the
turn inward to clear the rims. This brake applies it's
clamping force on an 8" rotor before it gets the torque
reduction of the rear end ratio. Also works with rear drum
Parts you get with the12-Bolt kit:
(1) Caliper Assembly
(2) Caliper Tubes
(2) Caliper Bolts
(1) Moroso Girdle Kit
(4) Thin Nuts
(4) Mounting Screws
1. Remove existing U-joint and girdles.
2. Fit Rotor over yoke. It may be necessary to grind a very small amount at 4 points shown in picture below to be able to get the Rotor to fit over the yoke. The other option is to remove the yoke, install the Rotor, then put the yoke back on. Try to grind all 4 spots equally to keep rotational mass balanced.
3. Put the supplied Moroso aluminum girdles and screws in yoke with out a u-joint present. It might be necessary to clean out or chase a thread tap thru your yoke to ensure good clean threads.
4 Place rotor over the 4 girdle bolts sticking out of the yoke. Some round filling may be necessary to align the bolts thru the rotor mounting holes.
5. Put the supplied 4 thin nuts over the screws to capture the rotor. The round pinion seal cover might be a little close. Simply wedge the nuts in, the cover will flex out of the way. Rotate the yoke and check for wobble in the rotor. Sometimes yoke castings are different and it could be necessary to True the rotor by either shimming between the rotor and the yoke or machine the backside of the yoke.
6. Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper together.
7. Put the supplied tubes and long bolts on the caliper. (The side with the lever).
8. Put the caliper tubes with the caliper thru the tubes in the bracket. Tighten the 2 nuts insuring the tubes assembled to the caliper slide freely with in the tubes of the bracket.
9. The nut on the back of the caliper adjusts the pads. Open adjustment of caliper pads and place caliper and bracket over the rotor.
10. Take out adjustment in caliper pads and pull lever to clamp rotor in place. Slide bracket away from rotor until the bracket is about 1/8” from the closest point of the bracket arch and the rear housing.
11. Use small c-clamps to hold bracket in it’s mounting position.
12. Match drill 4 clearance holes for 5/16” bolts in fins of rear housing and bracket mounting tabs.
13. Install all 4 supplied mounting bolts.
14. Once pre assemble is completed, disassemble everything.
15. Slip rotor over yoke.
16. Attach u-joint and drive shaft.
17. Assemble the girdles as specified by Moroso.
18. Mount the rotor to the girdle bolts, apply lock tight to thin nuts and tighten.
19. Put caliper and bracket assembly over rotor again and install all 4 supplied mounting bolts from the top, and put the lock nuts from the girdle kit on the bottom. The bolts are polymer coated Cadmium-plated grade 8 high-strength steel.
20. Adjust caliper pads and add your own parking brake cable. Since the cable has to make a 90 degree turn the easiest way to hook up a cable is to use an enclosed cable like a motorcycle cable. Be sure to have a return spring feature. With the cable hooked up, it should be adjusted to fully release when the emergency brake lever is off. Adjust the pads as loose as possible. If the brake doesn’t lock up the rotor
when it is applied try using the lower hole in the caliper arm, this will
give more movement to the pads.
Parts you get with the10-Bolt kit:
(1) Caliper Assembly
(2) Caliper Tubes
(2) Caliper Bolts
(4) Mounting nuts
(4) Mounting Screws
Suspension Hardware kit
This hardware kit is specially designed for replacing all 12
mounting points of the control arms on a Chevelle.
All components are Ultra-coated grade 8 high-strength
medium-carbon alloy steel that has been quenched and
tempered. It is an organic polymer coating, also known as
armor coat, is applied to CADMIUM-PLATED steel to provide
nearly twice the corrosion resistance of comparable hot
dipped galvanized fasteners, and does not affect thread
function. Salt spray resistance of 1000 hours per ASTM B117.
Screws meet SAE J429. Rockwell hardness is C33-39 with a
minimum tensile strength of 150,000 psi. Screws are
manufacturer and grade marked on top of head (6 radial
lines, indicating grade 8) has a clear silver finish. There
is no doubt that these will last far longer then OEM
Due to the use of polyurethane bushings some have been unfortunate to discover that the increased vibration works the nut loose. Well the kit includes a flex top lock nut tightened down to the first nut to double insure the nut never backs off. Thread locker compound can even be applied. This lock nut is not Ultra-coated. It has a castle like top that spreads out as it is threaded on doing what typical nylock nuts do but it is reusable and provides more clamping force. It is not grade 8 but does not need to be. The first nut is taking care of that.
Normally stainless is great! There are even grade 8 stainless bolts out there, but here is a unique situation. Suspension bolts are exposed to road salt, more so then say engine bolts or interior applications. Here is the problem with stainless steel when pressed together with anything causes an airtight surface on the stainless. Such as the space between the bolt and a washer or the space between threads. In this air-deprived region especially when chlorides are present, the stainless is not allowed to produce its protective layer of naturally occurring oxide. Then the chlorides attack the stainless steel causing pitting. This does not take the form of rust and this is not noticeable because you can not see it until the torque is reduces because of the loss of material then the bolts work loose. Stainless is not the way to go in an environment where it is common to use road salt period.
This is a very durable coating aka armor coat. It is over cadmium-plated hardware. Cadmium is a very good rust preventative all by it self. It ranks very high on the list. However it has its problems too. It is easily sacrificed thru galvanic corrosion to the more noble metals around. The cad has to be sacrificed before the steel bolt is in jeopardy. Cad is far superior to black oxide bolts from rust. So assuming the coating is scratched off, there is still a superior protection remaining. Especially on the central body of the bolt. Which is where I have some almost entirely rusted thru.
NEW! NEW! NEW!
Windshield Washer Fiber Optic Monitor System Display unit
I am now reproducing these items. It is molded plastic with a
clear lens just like the original only you need to paint it
black. I can make them in white or grey as shown. It is an exact duplicate of
a new original. Keep in mind that each
one is hand made. These are very rare and hard to find. I am offering these for $35/each.
I may make this a limited production so don't wait.
here to go to quality
used parts from my stash
for ordering instructions